Intro to Hueco Tanks: America's #1 Bouldering Spot
Hueco Tanks is a crag that every climber should visit at least once. There’s no place like it in the country. Slab, vertical, steep, highball, lowball—there is literally something for everyone. Hueco is probably best known for its roof bouldering problems—long roofs, high roofs, low roofs, short roofs—I’m a big fan of roofs, so you can probably guess why I love this place.
Since Hueco is so amazing, there is limited access in order to mitigate the effects on local plants, petroglyphs, and wildlife. This guide will help you plan your next trip to the best bouldering spot in the country!
When to Go:
Hueco is open year around! The summers are HOT, but the park is typically empty. Climbs in the sun might be too hot to touch and the hike will be miserable, but the roofs will be just fine! For most people, the bouldering seasons at Hueco lasts from fall to spring with winter being the most popular. The roofs are cold in the winter, but the non-roofs are perfect!
Hueco summer ( May to September) hours:
Friday through Sunday 7 a.m. – 7 p.m.
Monday through Thursday 8 a.m. – 6 p.m.
Hueco Winter (October to April) hours:
Everyday: 8 a.m. – 6 p.m
Where to Climb:
Hueco is divided into four mountains: North, East, East Spur and West. Each mountain offers great climbing, so how do you choose? First thing to consider is that East, East Spur, and West mountains require guides. Either you need a friend who is a registered guide to the area or you can book a commercial tour guide. Commercial guides cost around 30 dollars. My favorite guide is Blue Lizard Climbing and Yoga because not only do you get a great guide, but awesome pictures! Also, another factor to consider is that West mountain typically requires more hiking to the boulders than the other mountains.
North mountain requires reservations through the state park system. You can make reservations up to 90 days in advance, which is necessary in the fall-spring season. There are 60 spots for reservations and 10 walk-on spots. North mountain is nice because you don’t need a guide. You can go to whichever boulder you want, whenever you want!
How to get a Reservation:
To get access to North Mountain, first you need to make an account with the Texas State Parks. Here is the link to create your account:
https://texasstateparks.reserveamerica.com/checkAccountStatus.do?tti=MyAccount
Unfortunately you can’t make reservations for North Mountain through this site. You will have to call (512) 389-8911 and its on central time. Recently, I was told there was no plan to allow people to make reservations online.
For the other mountains, find a guiding service online and book through their website.
As I mentioned earlier, there are 10 walk-on spots for those who can’t get a reservation. To obtain a walk-on spot, you will need to arrive at Hueco often hours before they open during the busy, prime winter season.
Where to Stay:
I personally like to stay in hotels in El Paso and commute the 40 minutes to Hueco. The State Park offers camping, however, there is a gate that closes when the park closes so if you camp there, you can’t go in and out as you please after hours. There are a few places to stay that are only minutes away from Hueco. Hueco Rock Ranch offers beds and campsites. Gleatherland offers yurts and camping. The Hacienda offers rooms as well.
I’ve arrived! What’s next?
When you arrive at the entrance to Hueco, there will be a Ranger who will check to see if your name is on the list. Then they will send you to main building. As a heads up, your license plate number is required for the check-in form that everyone in your party will have to sign. Next, the Rangers will send you to a separate building, where you will watch a 15 minute video on the history and rules of Hueco. Now, you are free to climb!
Some Rules to Remember
1) Stay on the Trail
2) Don’t step on plant life or in Huecos.
3) Don’t climb on wet rocks
4) Leave before the park closes (so they don’t lock you in)
5) HAVE FUN!!!