Melanin Base Camp

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Hate the Cold? Try Ice Climbing!

Three years ago, my friend asked, “do you want to go ice climbing with me?” I laughed loudly, saying, “I get cold in 75 degree weather! I would never survive in such cold temps. I’m a southerner!” For the next two years, I refused their offer. I have always preferred 95 degree temperatures and slick rock over 35 degrees and dry holds.

My wonderful friends, David and Julie, topping out the climb!

Then out of the blue, something changed. The idea of ice climbing was now very intriguing. I approached my friend, David, and said, “remember three years ago, when you offered to take me ice climbing? I’m ready to take you up on that offer!” Luckily, the offer still stood. His wife, Julie, who is about my size, had gear that I could use. That meant all I needed to bring were warm clothes and PSYCHE!

Here is my packing list:

1) 1 pair of ski pants and my thickest tights

2) Leg warmers

3) Warm base layer socks, and Seirus heatwave socks to go on top

4) A down vest

5) A tank top, an insulated long sleeve shirt, a long sleeve thin insulated jacket

6) A light down jacket and a heavy ski jacket

7) Seirus glove liners and Xtreme All weather gloves

8) Multiple beanies and balaclavas

Here is the gear that David and Julie provided:

1) Harness, rope, caribiners and anchor knowledge

2) Crampons, ice tools, gaiters, plastic mountaineering boots

When we arrived at Cascade Canyon, 3.5 hours from Albuquerque, we had to decide whether to rappel in or to snowshoe in. These are two activities I am not entirely comfortable with, so we went with the fastest method! Rappelling down the mixture of ice and rock in crampons was a bit scary and nearly landing in a cold, icy pond at the bottom got my heart racing!

Once everyone was down, I stood at the bottom of the climb with my ice tools ready to rock! I made two moves and suddenly, I was off the wall, hovering inches above the icy pond. Thank goodness for David’s good belay or else my ice climbing career probably would have ended with that! I got back on the ice and slowly made it to the top of the ice with many more falls. But that wasn’t the end! I still had more climbing to do but at least it was on bare rock. I thought, ‘finally, I can use my hands and make it up these holds with no problem!’ Wrong! My hands were frozen in the shape of the ice tools and I couldn’t grab a single thing.

I had to dry tool, or use the ice tools on the rock. This method felt more natural, at least! I understood how to climb rocks even with crampons. I used many drop knees and even found a KNEE BAR! One hour after starting the climb, I topped out the problem! I was tired and hungry, but absolutely proud that I didn’t give up! Even though I typically wear earmuffs nine months out of the year, I wasn’t cold during this trip. All these years, I thought I was too much of a freeze-baby to enjoy ice climbing. I was wrong. Even freeze-babies can enjoy winter sports!

For those who have never tried it, I want to share some tips I learned:

1) Don’t over grip the tools! Your hands will get very cold, very quickly.

2) Look for previously made holes in the ice to use. It’s much easier!

3) Ice climbing is a serious calf workout!

4) Make sure to wear layers.

5) Have fun!

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