My Secret to Crushing Projects!
Power spotting is a secret key to success in bouldering. I discovered it about a year and a half ago when I first became close with my current climbing partner, Dave. He asked me if I would ever try this problem, “Fei Gei.” I said, “No way because I don’t know how to dyno.” Usually when I say that, most people proceed to give me verbal directions on how to do the move. But for someone like me, who struggles with movement, it’s not that easy. To my surprise, Dave offered to help me move my body with a power spot! I had never really used a power spot, and didn’t know yet how much this technique would change my life. Dave didn’t just give me a power spot on Fei Gei, he power spotted over 100 times over the next few months until one day I did the move that I thought I would never do. Now, I can reliably do that dyno, no problem. So what exactly is a power spot?
The most basic definition of a power spot is when a spotter takes off some of the climber’s weight. But it’s much much more than that! Here are 7 tips to become the best power spotter you can be!
1) Move with the climber
You’re probably thinking, “DUH, Favia! Of course you move with the climber!” But this is the number one mistake new power spotters make. I’ve gotten injured several times because the spotter was removing weight in one direction (usually up) but gave resistance when I moved to the left or right. It can feel like hitting a physical wall if the spotter doesn’t move with you.
2) Power spots can just be directional
For some climbs, I don’t need more strength to do the move but I need a directional assist. For example, if you’re failing on a move because you can’t keep your hips close to the wall, have the spotter just guide your hips rather than taking off weight!
3) modify and quantify the power
Knowing how much weight is being taken off is very important for the climber. In order for this technique to provide added value, the climber must feel as if they are progressing. The spotter should try to use percentages of how much weight they are taking off. You can practice this by trying to take most of the climbers weight off and see how heavy that feels. That would be taking off approximately 90-100% of the weight. You can then power spot with just your finger tips. That would be taking off approximately 1%. The spotter and climber must work together to figure out what amount of weight needs to be taken off. I usually start off heavy~ 70% and then slowly lower it—60, 50, 40, etc, until I can just barely do the move. The goal is to be able to complete the move with as little assistance as possible.
4) Consistency
Every power spotter is different—one spotter’s 20% is different from another spotter’s 20%. For this reason, I like to use the same power spotter on my mega projects. This way I can compare week to week to determine how much I’m improving!
5) Ask when the power spot is needed
Particularly when the climber is close to completing the move on their own, it’s important to figure out where you can cut back on the power spot. For example, I have been projecting a dynamic move that has a sag down to generate and then throws up and right to a sloper. At first, I needed help with sag down and the upward movement equally. After a few months, I could do the upward movement but the sag, I needed a lot more help with. Although it’s all one move, we have broken it into two parts and he spots differently for each part—more for the sag, less for the up.
6)SPOT FROM DIFFERENT POSITIONS
Sometimes the power spot can just do it standing up, but sometimes the spotter will need to get on their knees or stack pads to get in the best position. Also, play around with where you grab the climber. Sometimes, you can lift from the hips, waist, or beneath the armpits. Other times, you just gotta grab the butt!!! Just make sure to discuss where you can and cannot grab your climber!
Here the spotter helps the climber lift the leg to get on the problem.
7) Give no power
Climbing is wonderful because it is a combination of mental and physical abilities. I struggle with figuring out what is a physical limitation and what is mental. Often, my power spotter says I literally can take no more weight off, but for some reason, I still can’t do the move. This usually means it’s a mental limitation. To get over this, my power spot lightly touches my back, physically taking off no weight. But my brain feels as if I am getting a spot . This allows me to do the move, all on my own!
Power spotting is very technical and can be an intense workout for the spotter as well! I hope these tips help everyone master their projects!