Intro to Climbing Holds!

When you start your climbing journey, there is an overwhelming amount of information to learn, including safety, movement, lingo and much more. One critical piece of information that will help you become a successful climber is the different hold types. Knowing the names and how to use them will help you read the climb before you get started. It will also help you communicate to other climbers. In this post, I go over the basic hold types. For each hold type, there are different techniques to get the most out of each hold. I will discuss climbing techniques in future posts.

1. jug

The jug is typically the new climber’s favorite hold. It is big and easy to hold. Typically, you can fit multiple pads of all your fingers around the jug.

2. FLAT Edge

For some reason, I find flat edges difficult to hold, but generally they are beginner-friendly holds. They are flat and don’t have an incut. Often, you can fit all fingers and multiple pads on ledges.

3. sloper

Slopers are rounded holds that are more difficult to grasp than jugs and ledges. There are different types of slopers and you can have slopey jugs, ledges, crimps, etc. You grab slopers with open hands. There is a steep learning curve to using slopers efficiently. Body position is critical to using slopers, but more on that in future posts.

4. crimp

Crimps are my absolute favorite hold! I remember when I started climbing, I wondered why people tended to prefer small holds over jugs. Now, I’m one of those people. At higher grades, there are more crimps than jugs, so it’s best to learn to like these holds. But I also find that jugs hurt my skin more because of increased surface contact. Sometimes jugs press on my tendons in a weird way, whereas crimps don’t do that because they are too small!

Crimps are small holds that typically you can only get 1-2 finger pads on. I’m often using 1/2 pad and 1/4 pad crimps! There are three general ways to hold a crimp- Open Hand, Half Crimp, and Full crimp (shown in the pictures in that order). You can train all these styles on the hangboard. More on this later!

5. side pull

A side pull is exactly what it sounds like: a hold that is turned to the side and you must pull it! The side pull can be used in two directions. Depending on the direction, it is either called a side pull or a gaston. So if you’re in the gym and someone is yelling “Gaston”, don’t think Disney’s Gaston is on his way to show off his biceps. It’s a description on how to use a side pull. In this picture, when I use this right-facing side pull with my right hand, I use it as a side pull. But when I place my left hand on it, it’s now a gaston!!

6. undercling

An undercling is a hold that you grab with your palm facing the wall. Underclings come in all sizes. Pictured here is a jug undercling, but underclings can be tiny two-finger holds. These usually require that you also maintain tension with your feet.

7. Pinch

A pinch is a hold that goes between your thumb and your fingers. Pinches come in all sizes-wide, narrow, and more. This is one hold where thumb strength really comes into play! We often forget about training thumbs in climbing, but they are very important!

8. pocket

Pockets are holds that only a few fingers can fit in. If only one finger fits, we call it a mono. Pictured here is a shallow pocket. Some pockets you can fit your entire finger inside! These holds are notorious for causing tendon injuries, but with proper training, pockets can be safe and fun!

What’s your favorite hold?? Please share in the comments!