Diverse Mountain Towns: Anchorage, Alaska

Photo credit: Getty Images

In a recent article, I wrote about the dangers of romanticizing the Pacific Northwest, a region of the U.S. that has a deeply racist history, performative politics, a shortage of affordable housing, an overabundance of hate groups, and an unaddressed crisis of Missing and Murdered Indigenous People. And so many of you wanted to know if there were any better options. So if you’re still looking for the mountain town of your dreams, here are a few reasons why you should move to Anchorage, Alaska (and a few reasons why you shouldn’t).

Why you should move to Anchorage:

1) Outdoor recreation

If you love the outdoors, set your sights on Anchorage, Alaska. During its long summer days you can hike local trails in Chugach State Park, spot fish and wildlife from the Potter Marsh Boardwalk or enjoy a float trip along the North Fork Eagle River. If you like to bike, there are 250 miles of local trails including the scenic Coastal Trail connecting Kincaid Park and downtown Anchorage. Maybe you’re more into mountain biking? In that case, you should definitely visit ‘Hillside’ in Far North Bicentennial Park, or maybe drop into nearby Girdwood valley for lift-accessible single-track and post-ride drinks.

Winters are cold but not as cold as you might think with daytime temperatures ranging from 5 to 30 degrees Fahrenheit. Even though winter daylight hours are limited, there’s still lots to do from snowboarding, snowshoeing and fat tire biking at Alyeska to viewing the Northern Lights from the Glen Alps trailhead parking lot. Lastly, Denali National Park is only a 4-hr drive, Kenai Fjords National Park is just 2.5 hrs away, and Katmai and Lake Clark national parks are each accessible by air taxi. If you love the outdoors, you’ll love it here! But we outdoorsy People of Color cannot survive on mountain air and backpacking permits alone. We also need diverse community. Does Anchorage have that?

“Anchorage is only 59.2% white—which makes it a more racially diverse city than Portland, Denver and Seattle.”

2) Demographics

With a population of 300,000, Anchorage is the state’s largest city and ‘the largest small town you’ll ever live in’ according to the tourism board. The average age is 32, and a whopping 25% of the population is under the age of 18. If you’re looking to make friends with other Gen Z or millennials, you may find yourself competing for the 16.6% of Anchorage residents between 25-34 – compared to other mountain towns like Seattle (24.5%), Denver (23.4%) and Portland (18.7%).

The most diverse neighborhood in the U.S. is located in Anchorage—so are the three runners up, according to the 2020 U.S. Census. So if you’re tired of being the only Person of Color in your friend group, it’s time to buy a one-way ticket to Alaska.

Anchorage is only 59.2% white—which makes it a more racially diverse city than Portland (72.1% white), Denver (65.7% white) and Seattle (63.6% white). The second-largest demographic in Anchorage is Two or More Races (12.7%), followed by Asian (9.8%), Hispanic/Latine (9.7%), Native American/Alaska Native (7.4%) and Black (5.3%). So, you know the food is good.

Don’t get me wrong; as someone who does not cook, I can personally get down with a Midwestern casserole and slow cooker grape jelly meatballs—but this is better. Garlic shrimp, gumbo, reindeer sausage, yam tikka masala, borscht and pelmeni, tonkotsu ramen, doro tibs with injera—if you’re looking for comfort food, Anchorage has it!—along with a restaurant scene that feels less big city and more small town. 

Just don’t expect the same racial diversity from the Anchorage police department which is disproportionately white. But they want you to know they’re trying. It’s just, like—you know, really hard to reflect the community you serve.

“The most diverse neighborhood in the U.S. is located in Anchorage–so are the three runners up, according to the 2020 U.S. Census.”

3) Alaska Native culture

Anchorage is located on Dena’ina Athabascan ancestral land. Today, Dena’ina Ełnena is also home to multiple Alaska Native tribes. Want to really get to know your new city? Start with a visit to the Alaska Native Heritage Center and consider donating or becoming a sponsor. You should also save the date for the next Native Youth Games. It’s an annual event hosted by the Cook Inlet Tribal Council. Watching students from across the state compete in the seal hop, Alaskan high kick and wrist carry is a good reminder that Indigenous culture is alive and intergenerational. In the Fall, you can support artisans and craftspeople at the Alaska Native Customary Art Fair or watch traditional dances at Quyana Alaska. Or take a self-guided tour of Alaska Native murals and public art installations all over the city. There are many ways to appreciate and support Indigenous culture, language, food systems and more, even as an outsider! That includes donating to the Alaska Native Women’s Resource Center which addresses systemic barriers and awareness around gender-based violence, trafficking and missing murdered Indigenous women.

“...you’ll be competing with fewer investment companies in your housing search. They can buy in cash and bid higher than asking price. You can’t.”

4) Housing affordability

Oh, did we mention that Alaska residents get paid to live here? Your first permanent fund dividend won’t kick in for 12 months but let’s go house hunting in the meantime.

In Anchorage, the median single-family home price is $616,398. Whoa, that’s high! However, it’s still 35% lower than Seattle ($952,328) and 15.6% lower than Portland ($729,577). Yeah, you’re saving money already! On the other hand, it’s slightly higher than Denver ($612,791). We get it, buying a home in almost any mountain town feels financially out of reach for most people. But that’s okay; if you don’t have a $123,279 down payment ready—no worries! You can always rent. The median cost of a 1-bdr apartment in Anchorage is $1,400 with only 94 units available. You would need to earn at least $50,500 after taxes to afford rent. And maybe fight your fellow Alaskans because that is a shockingly low number of units!

In Anchorage, 63.8% of housing is owner-occupied compared to 53.3% in Portland, 49.4% in Denver and 44.5% in Seattle. That’s a healthy indicator; you’ll be competing with fewer investment companies in your housing search. They can buy in cash and bid higher than asking price. You can’t. It’s also a sign that the state is making it easier for Alaskans to buy a home, build equity and become financially secure. ‘How?’ you ask.

Well, in March 2024, the Alaska House of Representatives passed legislation reducing the mandatory down payment from 5% to 3% for the state mortgage lender, the Alaska Housing Finance Corporation (AHFC). That’s extremely helpful for anyone struggling to afford a 20% down payment using a traditional lender. The AHFC also offers reduced interest rates for first time homebuyers and down payment assistance and secondary assistance for income-eligible borrowers.

The downside of such a high owner-occupied rate in Anchorage is the low availability of rental units, leading to increased competition amongst renters. And housing inventory isn’t likely to drastically increase anytime soon given the state’s labor shortage and Alaska’s shrinking population. 

Now that you have housing, what about healthcare?

Potter Marsh Bird Sanctuary. Photo credit: Getty Images

Why you shouldn’t move to Anchorage:

1) Healthcare costs

It’s long been reported that residents of rural America have lower access to medical care and worse health outcomes. But if you’re excited about moving to a remote mountain town “separated from the rest of the United States by vast stretches of wilderness”, than Anchorage is just the spot. Okay, let’s see what we’re working with.

Healthcare costs in Anchorage are shockingly high at +51% above the national average. Alaskans pay the most out-of-pocket healthcare expenditures, period. For comparison, Seattle healthcare costs are only +30% above national average; Portland is +6% above national average and Denver is -1% below. Does that mean the quality of care in Anchorage is higher? Unfortunately, no. It means there are not enough providers.

Too little competition has resulted in higher prices for almost everything, from procedures to premiums. Alaska’s geography also makes medical care more expensive. You literally have to fly, drive, or ship through Canada to get medical supplies from the lower 48 to Anchorage. So everything costs more, including stuff you might depend on to survive like immunoglobulin, insulin or chemotherapy drugs. Healthcare inequities are also driving up prices, especially in smaller towns that don’t have hospitals or access to primary care.

At least in Anchorage, you’ll have access to Providence Medical Center (PAMC). It’s top-ranked in the state according to the U.S. News & World Report and it’s the top private employer in Alaska. PAMC is only a Level III trauma center, which means if you run out your protection or if you spend too much time trapped in a hydraulic, PAMC will resuscitate, stabilize and life-flight you to an out-of-state hospital that offers a higher level of care. The bill you receive in the mail may bankrupt you, but, hey!—at least the out-of-state care will be cheaper. 

Alternatively, if you belong to one of 574 federally recognized tribes, the Alaska Native Medical Center is a Level II trauma center that also offers telemedicine to rural communities across the state. The hospital itself incorporates Alaska Native design elements and its cafeteria serves traditional foods like “moose, wild-caught salmon, and seal.” 

So, how does Anchorage medical care measure up to other popular mountain towns? Seattle is home to the state’s top-ranked hospital, University of Washington Medical Center, which is also nationally ranked in four specialties. Their Harborview location is also the only Level I trauma center in Washington. Okay, so Anchorage can’t compete with that.

Let’s look at Portland. The Willamette Valley’s crown jewel has two Level 1 trauma centers, Oregon Health & Science University Hospital and Legacy Emanuel Medical Center. Impressive! Was there a fairly recent shooting in the Legacy Emanuel labor and delivery department? Maybe. But this is America; that could literally happen anywhere.

Well, what about Denver? Denver Health is the city’s only Level I trauma center if you discount UCHealth in nearby Aurora. But we won’t because the top medical center in the state is the UCHealth University of Colorado Hospital in Aurora.

Okay so the competition is stiff but Anchorage medical care is definitely adequate! And while this might be the most expensive city in America to be sick or chronically ill, that doesn’t mean the overall cost of living is high, right? Right?

Photo by Taylor Murphy on Unsplash

“Remember that your definition of community should include the most marginalized–not just other people who look like you or who share your privileges. ”

2) Cost of living

Anchorage’s beauty is as undeniable as its high cost of living, which stands out at +27% above the national average. Housing costs are also +37% higher, along with groceries (+25%) and utilities (+18%).

Okay so it’s an expensive city. At least, incomes are also higher. Median household income in Anchorage is $100,751 or 35% higher than the national median. Of course, that depends on your race. In Anchorage, median household income is highest for white ($109,006) and Two or More Race ($105,863) households and lowest for Alaska Native/Native American ($57,902) and Native Hawaiian ($45,568) households. This census data was absent for Black households. 

Remember you need at least $50,500 after taxes to afford a one bedroom in Anchorage. That means 50% of Native Hawaiian households in Anchorage make less than $45,568 annual income; immediately falling into the cost-burdened renter category (rent is too expensive). Close to 50% of Alaska Native and Native American families in Anchorage are also dealing with unaffordable housing.

Alaska Native and Native American children are 2.74 times more likely than non-Hispanic white children to live in poverty. This is due to the “lasting impacts of colonial removal policies, assimilation practices, and restrictions on Tribal self-determination [which] have become embedded in the U.S. economy through structural racism.” This should shock no one at this point, but you should be angry about it. Don’t just be angry; use your money, time and resources to support direct aid and Native-led nonprofits. Remember that your definition of community should include the most marginalized–not just other people who look like you or share your privileges. 

“There are no statewide protections against rent hikes in Alaska.”

3) Renter protections

As Alaska Public Media writer Jeremy Hsieh phrased it, “Homebuilding and vacancy rates are down, while rent, mortgage rates and home prices are up.” The affordable housing crisis is increasing housing instability, homelessness and moves out of state. So what does that look like for you, an Anchorage transplant and new renter?

If you struggle with covering rent, Anchorage may not be the city for you. During the height of the pandemic, the Alaska Housing Rent Relief distributed $262 million…to landlords and utility companies. What? Did you think that money went to struggling tenants? That program along with the federal eviction moratorium (also expired) did help keep eviction rates low for a time. So what protections would you have now as a tenant living in Anchorage? Not as many as you would like. Landlords can evict tenants who fail to pay rent on time and rent is considered late the day after its due. As Rob Kreiger, an economist with the Alaska Department of Labor and Workforce Development summarized, “With fewer rental units available, landlords face less competition among themselves. And renters face more competition from other renters.” 

It gets worse: There are no statewide protections against rent hikes in Alaska. Landlords are required to provide 30-days written notice of a rent increase and that’s it. They can even raise rent during the lease term in certain cases. Lastly, there are absolutely no limits on rent hikes. So how does that compare to your favorite mountain towns?

In Seattle, rent increases require a 180-day written notice and cannot occur during the lease term. Also, increases 10% or higher may qualify you for relocation assistance–or a lump sum payment of three times your current rent. Seattle cuts the relocation assistance check for income-eligible tenants and landlords are required to reimburse the city. 

In Portland, landlords can terminate your rental agreement without cause but they must provide 90-days notice and relocation assistance. They also can’t increase your rent by more than 5% in a 12-month period unless they provide 90-days notice. And if that rent increase is 10% or higher, the tenant can ask for relocation assistance and terminate the lease. Ew, the fact that Portland landlords can do rent hikes during the lease period is not okay either. But, you still have fewer protections as a tenant in Anchorage. 

Are you still dreaming of Denver? Because Colorado does not care about tenant rights. In Denver, landlords can increase rent during your active lease as long as they provide 60-days notice. They can raise rent once every 12 months and there are no limits on rent increases and no relocation assistance. 

It turns out, renter protections in mountain towns aren’t great–unless you can afford to live in Seattle. 

Grizzly bear at the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center. Photo by John Thomas on Unsplash

4) Homelessness

So what happens if you slide into housing instability or homelessness? Shelters in Anchorage have enough beds for only 524 of the city’s 900 unhoused residents—which is a problem, especially during colder months. Fifty one unsheltered people died outdoors in 2023 during record snowfalls, a 113% increase from 2022. This is not a safe city for unhoused community members because of the lack of low barrier shelters and its bitterly cold winters. 

The U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development does an annual point-in-time count totaling the number of “sheltered and unsheltered people experiencing homelessness on a single night in January.” Let’s see how Anchorage fared compared to other cities. In 2022, Anchorage had the fourth highest number of unhoused families for urban areas outside of the nation’s 50 largest cities. In 2023, it had the fourth highest number of unaccompanied youth experiencing homelessness. The Anchorage unhoused community grew by a staggering +66% over the past three years. 

Here’s how Anchorage compares to other mountain towns. 

After modest declines, Seattle’s unhoused population suddenly spiked +39% from 11,751 to 16,385 between 2020-24. Portland’s unhoused community grew +113% from 5,228 to 11,153 from 2022-24. Black and Indigenous residents are, of course, disproportionately represented in that figure. Denver’s unhoused population grew +49% from 6,104 to 9,065 between 2021-23. However, a different report found that 30,000 people accessed homeless services over the past year—45% for the first time.

Almost wherever you go, homelessness in America’s mountain towns is a serious issue. It’s fueled by a skyrocketing cost of living and an affordable housing crisis. If people cannot afford housing, they will become homeless. It’s that simple. They may no longer be available to make your overpriced latte when they are trying to find a place to shower, wash clothes, and park their car without being fined or towed. 

“Almost wherever you go, homelessness in America’s mountain towns is a serious issue.”

5) LGBTQ rights and community 

So what is it like to live in Anchorage as a member of the queer/trans community? Anchorage Redditor @jeebus_crisps had this to say: “We’re not San Francisco but we sure as hell ain’t Florida”. There are a handful of queer venues, including Mad Myrna’s, a bar and restaurant that hosts drag performances. A second option is The Raven, a neighborhood bar that hosts leather nights, underwear parties and fundraisers. There’s the Anchorage Pride parade hosted by Alaskans Together Foundation and Identity Inc, a nonprofit that provides educational, advocacy and healthcare services for LGBTQIA2S+ community members. Pride Foundation, a regional nonprofit based in the Northwest also has staff in Anchorage. Their focus is on advocacy, scholarships and competitive grants. 

So, would you want to live here as a queer or trans Person of Color? There are very few events in Anchorage advertised online for queer and trans People of Color (QTBIPOC), but gatherings may be happening in people’s residences. It’s hard to say; you can generally assume that if events or spaces are not created with us in mind they tend to skew white and gay—versus Black and sapphic, or Asian and trans nonbinary. And if you search for Anchorage queer events on Meetup.com, Seattle comes up a lot even though it’s 2,200 miles away. Not a good sign. So you may be physically safe, but very bored. What’s life without queer community?

But are you physically safe? Legally, you will have fewer rights and protections here than in some other states. Alaskan trans girls were barred from high school sports in 2023 and five more anti-trans bills are currently under review with lawmakers to alert parents to pronoun changes, restrict bathroom usage, etc. Not to be outdone, the Alaska State Commission for Human Rights recently reversed course on its decision to extend workplace, housing and public accommodation protections to all regardless of their sexuality or gender identity. So there’s that. The erosion of legal rights for queer and trans people living in Alaska is not a good sign. Do you still want to move here? 

Turquoise Lake at Lake Clark National Park is accessible by floatplane or boat ride. Photo credit: Getty Images

Conclusion

So to recap, the views in Anchorage are breathtaking, the people are diverse, there’s lots of support for first-time homebuyers. On the other hand, healthcare is unaffordable, the cost of living is high, renter protections are low, and it’s not a particularly safe city to be unhoused or a member of the 2SLGBTQ+ community. So, now the decision is up to you. Hopefully, the information I researched will help you make up your own mind about Anchorage. Just remember: there’s more to life than Seattle, Portland and Denver. I’m happy you made it this far and are open to considering other cities. 

Disclaimer (for non-Native readers only) If this series does anything at all, I hope you realize that mountain towns have their own issues. Please do not romanticize them. If you do your homework and accept that you may be sacrificing affordable housing, quality healthcare, education, diverse friend groups, 2SLGBTQ+ safe spaces, and cultural support to experience mountain views, deep powder and decent roadside whitewater–then that’s a different story. But please know what you’re getting into before you uproot your life. Make an informed decision. Much love, a millennial auntie.

This is a three part series. I hope you enjoyed the first article. Next up, I’ll be covering a diverse mountain town in the Lower 48. I can absolutely guarantee it won’t change your life. It might give you better food and a different set of problems. Stay tuned!